I took along a fly rod and fly-tying materials on a visit to Haute Provence some years ago, and spent a delightful day fishing in a briskly flowing mountain river. I had stopped in a bakery in Digne les Bains early in the day, and bought an anchovy fougasse for lunch. To this day, I have vivid recollections of that glistening fougasse, eaten high on a bank along the river.
To make an anchovy fougasse, substitute an equal weight of anchovies for the niçoise olives. If using salt anchovies (these are the most flavorful, but require cleaning), they must first be soaked to remove the excess salt, then filleted by running your thumb down the backbone and removing the bone. Chop the anchovies finely and add them to the dough toward the end of the mix. Proceed as for the olive fougasse.
A last Note: Many different doughs can be used to make excellent fougasse—breads generated from sourdough, poolish, biga, and well-made straight process doughs are all likely candidates. A simple brushing of olive oil and a sprinkling of coarse salt and fresh herbs when shaping is delightful; so, too, are olive oil, coarse salt, ground black pepper, and Parmesan cheese.
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