Scrambled eggs

Scrambled eggs, one of the most comforting and delicious of dishes, is a very old favourite in Britain. Even seventeenth-century doctors, who disapproved of eggs in almost every form, thought scrambled eggs were extremely wholesome.

However, as the old cookery books stress, the quality of the ingredients are of ultimate importance. The butter must be tasted in the shop ‘but do not be deceived by a well-scented piece artfully placed in the lump – dig well down with a knife and hold t