I try to use the absolute best ingredients I can find, and that includes grits. But after trying many different kinds of fancy organic grits, I settled on using a common grocery-store brand. The consistency it yields is exactly what I’m after. Holding hollandaise sauce in a small restaurant kitchen can be a challenge—it can separate and become oily in the heat. But we still bring out this dish every now and then as a special just because it’s so good. Like our breakfast potatoes in the