Every evening in Mrauk U I had the luxury of eating at a small guesthouse on the edge of town, where the innkeeper’s wife, Shwe Nwe, served a multidish supper. The food was so varied and so fresh tasting that I think of those dinners as some kind of eating-Eden experience. Best of all, I was able to go to the kitchen daily and learn as I watched Shwe Nwe cook.