Tamarind Chutney with Shallots and Dried Chiles

• 2 or 3 dried red chiles
• shallots
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• ¼

In Pakkoku, a household of fabulous cooks (see “‘Tribal Woman,’”) showed me another take on tamarind sauce. Make the tamarind liquid as above. Soak 2 or 3 dried red chiles in warm water for 20 minutes, then drain, remove the stems and seeds, and mince; or pound to a paste in a mortar. Stir into the tamarind liquid along with a scant ½ cup thinly sliced sh