By Naomi Duguid
Mohinga as it’s made and served on the street in Rangoon can be a multilayered, extraordinary dish. The trick is to find a cook who cares a lot—look for a busy stall—and then keep going back to her each day.
Here’s one welcoming take on Rangoon-style mohinga. I’ve included banana stem in case you have access to it, but you can make the soup without it. Do make at least one of the fried toppings.