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Easy
Ecrevisses — freshwater crayfish — abound in both Martinique and Guadeloupe. Unfortunately they are rarely found in fish-mongers in Britain, but you might perhaps catch your own. In most of the English-speaking islands ‘crayfish’ have become ‘crawfish’. In Martinique and Guadeloupe ‘écrevisses’ have been transformed into ‘cribiches’.
Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan and add the crayfish, onion and garlic. Sauté over medium heat until the crayfish have changed colour, about 5 minutes. Add the fennel, hot pepper and water. Cover and cook at a gentle simmer for 30 minutes. Remove and discard the fennel and the hot pepper. Remove the crayfish, pound in a mortar and push through a fine sieve, or reduce to a purée in an electr