Sea Bass in Pastry with Sorrel and Mushrooms

The sea bass is a summer fish – the first few are brought into the restaurant in April and May, but by July and August they are in full flood, some small enough to serve whole for one diner alone, and others reaching as much as 3.5 kg/8 lb or so in weight.

It is one of the finest offish, with its firm, sweet flesh. Recently it has become fashionable in many a restaurant, but we have always thought of it as very much a local catch – a fish that amateur fishermen might catch on holida