This is a late spring and early summer recipe, when the wild salmon are in season, and the tender young samphire is first covering the sea-walls. Luckily it grows near the restaurant and I am able to pick what I need.
Lay the salmon steaks in a buttered, shallow flameproof dish, give a couple of twists of the pepper mill over the fish and arrange the samphire on top. Pour over the wine or champagne, cover with a lid or foil, and cook in a
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