I had to make a trip to an architectural antiques shop in South Molton near Barnstaple, to buy a fitment for the kitchen. I found what I wanted, and then discovered that it was market day. On one of the fish stalls they were selling laver, that dark, delicious seaweed. It was the nicest I’d ever seen, looking almost like wild spinach with more texture to it than usual. It is common round the north Devon and Welsh coastlines, but strangely we don’t get it near Dartmouth.
Serve it as