Pan-Fried Quail with Grits, Country Ham, and Cream Gravy

Breakfast isn’t breakfast without a pot of grits, and in the lowcountry that means real “country” grits—whole grain and coarsely stone-ground. They take a little longer to cook than those bland, degerminated ones from the grocery store, but they are so creamy and infinitely more flavorful.

Country ham is fried in a dry pan; oil is added to the pan to fry the quail, and gravy is made with the delicious dregs. You can use water, stock, or milk to make the gravy, but in this no-holds-b