Strawberry Ice Cream

Strawberries are the first fruits of the year; their season marks the beginning of good deep-sea fishing. The ice cream is custard based, rich with egg yolks and cream. The egg whites go into angel food cake, quite simply the easiest cake to make.

You can cook the custard, prepare the strawberries, and bake the cake the day before. Bring the churn to the cook-out and make everyone take a turn — it only takes 20 minutes to freeze, and it can sit in the ice until serving time.