Weddings were a time for feasting in Szechwan. No expense was spared, and the guests were offered the most elegant dishes the kitchen could prepare. In Mrs. Chiang’s family it was traditional to serve three special banquet dishes, or dacai, at a wedding — a soup made out of a whole chicken, a whole duck, and a fresh ham, or tipan. Other delicacies could be added, but these three were crucial. All the guests c