Real Chinese fried rice is such a simple dish that Mrs. Chiang often serves it instead of boiled rice during the course of a regular meal. Unlike the greasy brown concoctions that pass for fried rice in most American Chinese restaurants, real fried rice is light and delicate; just leftover rice fried together with a few scallions, a little salt, and an egg or two. Such simplicity invites variation, and a creative cook can add almost anything. In Taiwa
