Chinese-Style Pickled Salmon

Every year at Passover time, a small group of San Francisco’s Jewish restaurateurs and chefs gather for a Seder dinner. It’s always a splendid potluck feast of traditional Jewish fare, and it is often celebrated in one of the restaurants.

Late one Seder night, I returned stuffed and sleepy to China Moon to discover that we’d not been busy and there was a whole, beautifully fresh salmon left over. With the taste of my friend