Paris Salad

I adore Paris and love to spend leisurely weeks there—gathering goodies on long daytime walks, spreading them out on a little table in a rented apartment, and sitting down for a dinnertime feast like a fat, happy cat. In addition to all the wonders that are very French, the street-eating scene has been much enlivened in recent years by a bloom of Asian take-out shops.

It was in one such shop, located near the hubbub of the Bastille and run by a Chinese couple newly emigrated from no