First and foremost is porridge. With Scottish ancestry and living, as I do, in the country, I know that porridge must be made with water and a pinch of salt. When a notable food writer once suggested to my friend Isabel that porridge could be made with milk, she replied that people called that puppy sick, and promptly stopped him in his tracks. There is a splendid porridge stall at the Edinburgh Farmers’ Market, offering the dish with many and various flavours from whisky t