Spaghetti with botargo

When I was a child my father used to eat botargo, the dried mullet roe so beloved of Mediterranean countries. I thought it was horrid, but now I am grown up I love it too. At VinCaffè, Francesca Contini’s delightful cafe next to Harvey Nichols in Edinburgh, they serve this simple but delicious dish. The Italians don’t eat Parmesan with fish - a chef called Anacleto once threw a knife at my head for asking for it with vongole - but I am not Italian, and by and large they hum