When the large pale-yellow quinces are in season, their sweet floral perfume wafts through the kitchens of Turkey. Sliced into fine segments as meze, cooked into jam, casseroled with meat or made into this pretty pink dessert, quinces are wonderfully versatile. The natural pectin in the fruit and seeds transforms the poaching liquid into a light jelly. The chefs of Istanbul pick out the seeds and cloves from the jelly before serving, but elsewhere the crunchiness of the sweetened seeds and cloves is enjoyed.
© 1995 Ghillie Basan. All rights reserved.