Bécasse rôtie en salmis, choux rouge

According to some people, woodcock is the king of birds, largely because of its flavour but also because it’s an almost perfect example of nose-to-tail eating. I can’t say it’s my favourite game bird but if you’ve never tried it, it’s certainly an experience. The recipe here is based on the most traditional French way to serve woodcock: roasted whole with its innards – these are thought to contribute to its unique flavour – and its head. Once cooked, the guts are scooped out, spread onto to