Sole aux cèpes

In my region we are ceps mad. There is something about the terroir and climate in the south-west that gives our ceps the most beautiful flavour and aroma – unlike any others grown in France. When I was a child, we used to leave school at midday to go home for lunch, and on warm September days, the buttery mushroom aromas wafting out of houses as I ran down the street were intoxicating; I always used to arrive home starving.