Leon Lianides, who welcomed his guests personally at the Coach House restaurant in New York City for over 40 years (“and I don’t want to tell you how many hours”), is one of the last thriving gentlemen of the old school. Leon was and is dedicated to one thing: quality. Although this landmark has now closed, it won’t soon be forgotten.

Back when “American cuisine” meant burgers and fries, Leon (who grew up in Corfu, Greece, and who was a professor of mathematics earlier in life) serv