Indiana Orchard Apple Crumb Pie

When I still owned a Fire Island house, we always welcomed the end of summer—and the departure of the summer crowds. So that’s when we’d invite my friend Mick’s sister, Nancy, for her annual visit from Indiana. Every year when we met her at the boat, she would be dragging two enormous canvas bags full of apples that she had picked the day before in an Indiana orchard.

Mick would unzip the bags and stick his face inside, inhaling deeply. Suddenly the house would fill with a winy appl