Baked Hake with Cappon Magro Sauce

Hake is a meaty fish which holds its shape when cooked, although that shape, it could be argued, couldn’t justify a letter home. More to the point I think is its skin, which like the cod’s or haddock’s is a rather unappetizing grey. Underneath this though is flesh (I’ve been trying to avoid that word) of a mild sweet flavour and a firm but yielding consistency that doesn’t separate into slippery flakes – good kebab fish, I suppose, if you don’t mind throwing some away (and you do – I know y