Welsh rarebit with leeks

What is or isn’t a proper Welsh rarebit – or rabbit – is a matter to be settled with kitchen knives at dawn. The reality is that the Welsh bread-and-cheese is exactly that, a simple matter of toasting a slab of last summer’s well-matured cheese on a fork and popping it on a slice of bread. In a more sophisticated incarnation, it’s a cheesy mustardy cream sauce, as here, spooned over whole leeks and blitzed under the grill. Choose plump leeks, strong mustard and mature cheese.