Baked salmon cutlets with caper butter

Failing an Ystwyth sewin caught on rod and line – stocks are improving all the time, and there’s many a tale to tell of the ones that got away – choose farmed Atlantic salmon reared in uncrowded conditions in cold Scottish waters, and check the label for organic certification. Choose middle-cut – the best and most expensive – and strike a bargain with the fishmonger for the tailpiece (save it for kedgeree).