By Robert Wemischner and Diana Rosen
With its delicate, dense flesh, trout is a perfect fish for this poached-in-smoky-tea treatment. A raft of slow-cooked, caramelized onions blankets each portion and an Indian-style raita of cucumbers and tomatoes in yogurt adds a bit of summer on the plate.
Drain the yogurt in cheesecloth or a fine-meshed sieve set over a bowl to eliminate excess moisture. Roast the cumin seeds in a heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until they release their aroma. Watch closely, as these burn easily. Grind seeds in an electric spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Set aside.
Combine the cucumber and tomato with salt to taste. Add th