I do not think the soufflé is truly part of the tradition of English cooking. I cannot find any dish nearer to it in early recipes than various forms of more or less soufflé omelettes. However, a cheese soufflé is, in many ways, a perfect savoury, and since every form of cold and hot soufflé graced Edwardian tables, I have fallen to the temptation of giving my own favourite recipe here.