I am always happy when I have quinces in my kitchen: their heady, honeyed perfume, mixed with a floral citrusiness that prevents its becoming cloying, is better than the most expensive scented candle in the world. They used to be hard to come by if you didn’t have a quince tree in your garden, but now they seem to come proudly to the shops in November and December, and you should make the most of them.
This recipe is where I propose you start. It could scarcely be simpler. I’ve been