Fillets of Striped Bass with Cockles and Oysters

This dish is especially dramatic if you can track down thick fillets of wild striped bass, cod, tilefish, or red snapper. The cockles impart a wonderful flavor to the braising liquid, and the oysters are a luxurious garnish for topping or surrounding the fish. The sauce can be kept very light with a minimum of cream and butter or made as rich as you like. The cockles or mussels can be steamed earlier the same day, saving you a step at dinnertime.