My mother had a great fondness for many dishes that are ultimately of French origin, several of which I have adapted for this book. She did not use olive oil to a great degree, and she certainly did not have access in my Mississippi home to Dijon-style or Düsseldorf mustard. She used a very ordinary brand of store-bought vinegar, mostly white, the only kind available to her in the small town of my childhood. Her favorite and most used cookbook, incidentally, was Fannie Farmer’s, which did offer recipes for numerous well-researched French dishes.
© 1987 Craig Claiborne estate. All rights reserved.