This classic spring vegetable ragout is from La cucina livornese. It is another gem from the repertoire of Emma Belforte, whose palate I obviously share, although we may differ on cooking times. The dish is often served at Passover, the ultimate Jewish rite of spring. I’ve suggested the contemporary garnish of gremolata, a mixture of lemon zest, garlic, parsley, or, in this case, basil, to bring lightness and sparkle.