Smoky Eggplant Puree

Batersh is the most famous dish from the west-central city of Hama, Syria. It is similar to the Turkish ali nazik (eggplant with yogurt) and hünkar beğendi (eggplant with a béchamel sauce). Make batersh during the summer, when eggplants are at their peak. Some cooks strain the yogurt a day in advance to make a more creamy and flavorful puree; you can also garnish it with minced parsley rather than green onion. Be sure to toast the pine nuts to bring out their intense sweet notes. Serve bate