Mrs. Bikhalal Patel, whose family operates a successful grocery store and restaurant in Minneapolis, is a die-hard vegetarian and an extraordinary cook. Like so many women from Kutch, she breathes passion into many of the curries from her homeland, a tortoise-shaped district that spans much of the northwestern state of Gujarat. Their foods are simple, dairy-based, and rich with legumes and spices. An absence of onion, garlic, and even ginger in her dishes sheds light on Mrs
