Chickpea Flour Dumplings in a Spicy Yogurt Sauce

My friend Radhika Sharma, who was born in Mumbai and has strong familial roots in Rajasthan, India’s desert country, talked with me about the way the absence of vegetation has shaped that region’s culinary habits. Reliance on dried legumes, flours, milk, and dairy products is the norm, with vegetables being a scarcity, confined to a short growing season. Rajasthan’s cuisine, like its people’s love for the arts, colorful jewelry, and clothing, reflects a culture that has triumphed over adver