Hearty dumplings like these are special-occasion fare in Tamil-speaking kitchens. They are not laborious to make but do take some constant stirring, which can be a bit of a workout because the mixture is dense. The dumplings are often simmered in a tamarind-based curry, but I like the clean-tasting tartness that buttermilk offers in this version. Puffy fried pooris are an ideal accompaniment to this surprisingly heavy curry.

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