Rajasthan’s signature dish, this curry makes perfect sense, especially when you realize how arid that state’s climate is for most of the year. To optimize the short growing season for fruits, vegetables, and herbs, Rajasthanis use the very same sun to dry them out for later use—and then reconstitute them in dairy products, which can be more plentiful there than water. So when flat, thin beans and desert berries blossom, they are plucked and sun-parched, to be soaked later in buttermilk and