Stewed Spinach with Coconut, Chiles, and Curry Leaves

When my mother prepared this curry, she bought numerous bunches of spinach from the vegetable vendor, who sold them from his pushcart. She would plunk them on large pieces of old newspaper, and proceed to pull the tender leaves from their thick stems while the dirt collected on the paper. Then she repeatedly dunked the leaves in a large bowl of water, letting any remaining dirt sink to the bottom. Soon the greens, stewed with chile-spiced coconut, were spooned into bowls set on dinner plate