Bengali-Style Green Papaya with Tomato and Chiles

Common in Bengali-speaking kitchens, this thin, stewlike curry (jhol), combines unripe papaya with bitter, hot, sweet spices to create a surprisingly sweet and highly complex-tasting sauce. Watch out for those chiles, should one land on your plate. I love to bite into them with mouthfuls of cooked rice in between to absorb some of the heat.