I associate biryanis with Sunday dinners, family gatherings, and special-occasion meals. In restaurants in India, dum biryanis are always served in individual clay or copper-bottomed pots with a crisp layer of pastry sealing the top. The waiter breaks it open at the table to reveal mouthwatering, perfume-spiced layers of meat, vegetables, and rice, and ladles out a portion for you to wolf down with a yogurt-based raita on the side. This perfect one-pot meal can be the only dis