Kedgeree should properly be made from smoked haddock and include hard-boiled eggs. It has its roots in the early days of the Raj, an example of Anglicizing an Indian dish – probably khicharhi, boiled rice and lentils tossed in ghee with spices – first referred to in 1845 by
Kedgeree is a réchaufée, that is an assembly of cooked ingredients which are gently reheated, either in a pan on the hob or in a low oven. The amount of cream used is a matter of personal preference, with the richer variations coming close to a pilaf in texture.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/gas 3 and butter a large ovenproof dish. Push the egg yolks through a sieve and chop the whites.
In a bowl, mix together the rice, fish and the chopped egg whites. Season with cayenne, nutmeg, pepper and a little salt. Stir in the cream, put into the dish and dot the top with the butter.
Heat through in the oven for about 20 minutes.
Mound the kedgeree in the centre of 4 warmed plates. Garnish with the sieved egg yolk and chopped chives. Put a lemon quarter on each plate and serve.
© 1998 Alastair Little and Richard Whittington estate. All rights reserved.