Snickerdoodles

You can’t help wanting to cook a biscuit with a name like this. Luckily, these live up to it. They’re verging on cakes, but only in the sense that they’re neither crisp nor flat; what they taste like, in fact, are oven-baked doughnuts – small, cinnamony, with a drier crumb than the dunkin’ sort, and very, very more-ish.

I love these as part of a pudding, with a bowl of warm, spicy, poached or stewed plums (and see the recipe for these in