Pistachio Soufflés

Normally I hate the individually portioned, the mealy-mouthed ramekin of professional practice. But I make exceptions. I’ve made pistachio soufflé in one large dish and loved it, but you just don’t get that perfect ratio of heat-singed exterior and tender interior unless you use dishes with a small diameter.

I have a particular love for pistachios, their scent, their fragrant, delicate taste, that clean eau-de-nil colour, those romantic, Arabian Nights associations. The squar