Edda Servi Machlin, in her resonant, elegiac book, The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews, writes of her aunt’s frittelle di chanukà, yeasty, diamond-shaped doughnuts fried till golden and then drenched in a lemon and honey syrup. It’s the Greek version, loukamades (eaten all over Greece all the year round, in fact, regardless of ethnicity), w
