Mont Blanc

I think this may be my favourite pudding of all time. The chestnuts have a dizzying intensity which is a perfect foil for the fat, smooth blandness of the cream. This version is very much easier than the traditional way, which involves cooking then peeling all the chestnuts before you can get started; I know purists insist on it, but it does seem to me to be the fast route to a nervous breakdown, especially at Christmas.

This time of year demands a certain amount of vulgarity, which