This Tuscan pork loin roast with garlic and fennel seed has never failed me. The dry marinade subtly perfumes the meat and somehow prevents the pork drying out. The loin is normally prepared with the skin removed, which certainly helps in the marinating process. In Italy all the skin seems to be saved for use in their very fine sausages. Thus crackling is unknown, which is a shame as surely that’s the whole point of roast pork. Ask your butcher to leave the bone on the loin but loosened from the meat to make carving easier. Ask, too, that the roast be cut from the rib end of the loin and, if you want the crackling, for the skin to be scored and removed – it can be roasted alongside.