Pumpkin, Pancetta, and Arborio Rice Soup

I love the way the rich, salty pancetta plays against the sweetness of pumpkin in this ode to autumn. The short-grain arborio rice, traditionally used in risotto, makes the soup soothing and filling. For the most delicious results, get an heirloom variety of pumpkin like Long Island Cheese pumpkin, Rouge Vif D’Étampes (aka Cinderella pumpkin), or a Queensland Blue pumpkin from the farmers’ market. It takes about 30 minutes to take down a squash and dice it, and a 6-lb [2.7-kg] pumpkin will