Orson Welles was one of the most famous of Hollywood gastronomes, as legendary for the breadth of his waistcoat as for that of his talent. As long ago as 1941, in fact, columnist Sidney Skolsky wrote that Welles was the only actor ever to have had a dish named after him at Chasen’s, the ultimate Hollywood restaurant. Skolsky didn’t identify the dish, but noted that it involved “a three- or four-pound piece of roast beef.” Welles later told an interviewer that the dish refer
