Chicken Rice Porridge with Saffron, Collards, and Soy-Cured Egg Yolks

The same dish in the Philippines may go under different names, depending on where it’s eaten and the slightest changes in ingredients, which can be confusing to an outsider (and sometimes even to us!). So: The genre of rice porridge is called lugaw, which at its most basic is simply rice boiled down until the grains lose their individual contours and become one. A cousin to Chinese congee and Korean juk, lugaw might be seasoned with nothing more than patis (fish sauce) and still soothe the