Tender Osso Buco, Bone Marrow, and Vegetables in Beef Broth

As a young chef, I was struck by how this comfort dish of my childhood—a lush, long-simmered broth of bone-in beef shank—kept turning up in other cultures in different forms, like Korean seolleongtang, milky from ox bones and leached marrow, and French pot-au-feu, crystalline and crowded with vegetables. What makes nilaga special is the touch of surf alongside the turf from the fish sauce, giving contour to the broth.

This recipe marries the nilaga of my memory and the pot-au-feu of